#Custom redline tires full#
Full payment is expected with 3 days of the end of the auction. If you win more than one item, please wait until I send you an invoice with the correct shipping amount. Shipping discount - If you win multiple items, on the same day, you only pay shipping and insurance if needed, for the most expensive item. Alternative payment methods available upon request. I can also be reached at newqui5 via AOL. If you have any questions about the auction, please inquire BEFORE the auction ends. Please do not pay until you receive my invoice. International auction winners, see below. I will also send an invoice for confirmation. I do not end auctions early, please don't ask.Winning bidders within the United States: At the conclusion of the auction, you can pay for your item by going through the eBay checkout process. Please take a look at the other 20 vintage Hot Wheels that I have up for auction this week.1967 "CUSTOM BARRACUDA"All sales final, no returns or exchanges. I got three pieces of advice 1) never buy a cam for the rumble, and 2) never buy a Polyglass tire, and 3) never marry a divorced woman, while her ex still lives.S/H/I: $4.00 - International Shipping Will Cost More -Mattel 1967 Hot Wheels purple "Custom Barracuda" Redline wheels.Good "played with" condition. It took me all of summer of 71 to master that plick, and then the tires were wore out.īut gosh those raised white letters looked so nice all cleaned up and fresh-painted. I had several hi-school nicknames like Ditcher, Ditch-hitter, and 360, and Circle Clown or something. I give all the credit of my driving prowess,lol, directly to those tires. I learned to drive in one of those 340Swingers and I can attest to that it was like driving on ball-bearings all the time. On a 340 Swinger, those factory supplied E70-14s turned that car into the most evil handling POS-car a 17 year old kid could ever have. If you have a slanty and never drive over 30mph, you'd be ok. To do that, I only had to move the springs and run a custom backspace.Īfter that, I narrowed the rear end so I could run off-the-shelf 4.5 backspace wheels, so now, I run 295/50-15s on 10" rims, at 24psi.īut as said Polyglass was cutting edge in 1970, but the reputation of Polyglass is legendary. On the back I have installed, into the stock tubs, as much as 325/50-15s on 10s which IIRC were ~13.8 section and close to 28 tall before being bolted on. I have to run these at 28psi to get even-across-the-tread wear. The height is about 25 before being bolted on.
On my 7.5s that would be at least an inch more so 10.25 section. On the front are 235/60-14s on 7.5" rims which spec out as 9.25 section when installed on a 6.5 rim. If you're just tip-toeing around,you might think that would be fine, but you have to also keep in mind that your front wheels and tires also have to handle about 85% of the brake load, so you really want the tires to be flat on the road at a decent tire-pressure. Anyway, you can put an F on a 5.5, but you will not get decent handling on it, nor decent treadlife. What I mean is the factory put Es on 5.5s, but really, the equivalent to an E (7.35 tread) in P-metric is about a 175 section. I mean you can put them on there but 5.5s are designed for E's max. You can solve this by running a very low tire pressure, perhaps 24psi, but at that pressure, the car will handle very poorly. You can use a 7, but it will pinch the beads in and the tire will not sit flat on the road at normal pressure and so the outside two ribs will wear at a much slower rate than the centers. They want 8" rims but you cannot put 14x8s on the front, at a backspace that won't at some point in the suspension travel/steering angle, either, put the inside sidewall into the strutrod or frame, or the outside one, into the fender so you can't use a 14x 8 at all. Fs were 7.75 treads, and so translate to about 9.25 section.
Yes I think they will fit on the factory 5.5 rims.
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